Submersible Well Pumps from Aqua. Zilmet Pressure Tanks; Pressure Tank Installation Tee. The figures are based on a tank precharge (initial air charge). I just let all the pressure out of my AO Smith aqua air v140 to. ยป Ao smith aqua air v140 how to pressurize tank. V100 and have had pressure problems. Hi, we have a V100 and have had pressure problems lately in the house we just moved into last year (it's been fine until the other day). Tom stated that the tank pressure should be 2 psi below the pump cut-in. Our cut-in is about 38-40 psi but the tank pressure is 60 psi (the previous owner said this is what they kept it at and it worked fine). I've done all the tests as described above and it seems the tank (bladder) is fine but still no pressure in the lines. I've tried adding more air, which keeps the pressure but then the pump kicks in too often, and reducing which results in lost pressure and it takes forever for the pump to kick in. I guess the question is, what would you consider the 'average(?)' working psi and is there such a thing? Thanks, Dave. Bad, you don't adjust pressure in the tank. The pressure at the top of the tank should be set at 2# below the cut in pressure. This is done with the breaker off and the tank drained down (through a low level faucet) to zero pressure. Once you do this, leave it alone. You cannot solve problems by continually readjusting pressure in the tank. Additionally, the tank pressure, once you turn the pump back on, will go up and down. You might set it at, say, 30#, then check it later and it might read 60#. That is normal. 'Set it and forget it'. My house is about 7 years old. My pressure tank is a Goulds V100. A 31.8 gallon tank. Bladder is shot. Top of tank is full of water. I called around and found a plumber that has my exact tank sitting in his shop. Said he would sell it to me 'under table' for $240. Another supplier stopped carrying Goulds but has a Champion of equivalent size for $198. Lowes has one called Well Saver on there web site for $212. When I called the store they called it a Utilitech brand. It's late now and I am running out of time. Is the one from Lowes junk or does it really matter? I can run in now and pick it up. Also the plumber told me when you change the tank the T, the pressure switch, and the gauge should all be changed. Sounds like a way to put more money in his pocket to me. Any thoughts on replacing anything else? Originally Posted By SUPERSPORT: The top end is full of water. There is at least a hole in the bladder, don't know how big. Water should not be shooting out of the air valve. I could add more air tonight for a temp fix but don't know how to get rid of water on air side. Plus I may try and if the hole is big enough it wont work anyway. BTW, the Lowes tank is fatter than mine and I would have to do some extra plumbing to make it fit. Guess that's not happening tonight. If the bladder tank is holed, it's history, don't even bother to try to add air. It'll be fine for a day or two, it'll just kick on every time someone uses the water. Wouldn't run it like that for very long but a day or two..it'll be fine. I was having my system refurbished over the last two days. I went from a Well X Trol 201 (14 gal) to a 203 (32gal), My old tank was about 16 years old and rusting out. The cost for the new tank was a little over $200.00. I went with a new T package as well. I figured I may as well do everything at once and avoid a repeat of labor later. I had the iron filter relined and some of the plumbing re routed as well.
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